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THE Chenin Blanc
Association used to be one of the least effectual industry bodies — that
is, until its leadership was taken over by the indefatigable Ken
Forrester.
MICHAEL FRIDJHON
Business Day - Published: 2010/10/13 07:52:14 AM
THE Chenin Blanc Association used to be one of the least effectual
industry bodies — that is, until its leadership was taken over by the
indefatigable Ken Forrester. Since Forrester’s wine activities are
inextricably linked to the reputation and image of Chenin, he has wasted
little time in making his presence felt. Organising any group of wine
producers is very much like trying to herd cats. Accordingly, getting 30
members of the association to present a line-up of current release wines
alongside a myriad of dishes prepared by Delaire Graff’s IndoChine chef
Jonathan Heath must count as no mean achievement.
The line-up was arranged from fresh, fruity and recently bottled to
bigger, slightly older (and generally oaked). Those of the tasters who
resisted the temptation of the canapes while their palates were fresh
had a second chance to look at the wines in the context of food once the
baroque array of lunch dishes was served. Wines cannot be held
accountable once palates are coated with coconut milk and chilli.
To the extent that some of these food and wine matches didn’t work,
there are pairing lessons to be learnt. However, what did emerge from
the mealtime sampling is the extraordinary versatility of Chenin. In
most cases it survived very assertive ingredients, and with the spicier
food it positively thrived.
The wines fell fairly easily into three groups: most of the 2010s were
unwooded, bottled under screw-cap and sold to satisfy the needs of the
everyday drinker. Included in this line-up were several exceptional
examples. Forrester’s 2010 Petit Chenin (which retails at just over R30
per bottle) is probably his best vintage to date. It has fine, crisp but
not aggressive flavours, whiffs of apricot, intense pear-drop notes, and
lovely balance and length. It’s hard to imagine any wine delivering more
pleasure at the price point.
The Riebeeck 2010 Swartland Chenin showed fuller, slightly more opulent
textures than the Petit Chenin — making it the kind of wine with which
to confront a spicy menu selection. Like Forrester’s cuvée, the
winemaking is immaculate. There is more complexity in the youthful fruit
than anyone could reasonably demand of a 2010, and enough palate weight
to give it real versatility.
At the opposite end of the same spectrum is the standard 2010 Beaumont
(as opposed to the bigger and breathtakingly beautiful Hope Marguerite
2009). Here, finesse and delicacy are the hallmark features — reined in
at present but likely to evolve over the next couple of years.
The same could be said about the 2010 Villiera — a wine which in its
youth is easy to miss but which develops with even a little time in
bottle into something quite striking.
For those seeking a stylistic midpoint, the 2009 Opstal, showing all the
concentration that comes from vines that are about 30 years old, is
probably the way to go. I also liked the Barton 2010, plush aromatics
without unnecessary palate weight, and a lively fresh finish.
Of the bigger wines there were several standout examples. De Morgenzon
has been putting very fine Teddy Hall-style oaked Chenins on the market
since the maiden 2005 (which bagged a Platter five-star rating on its
first vintage). These wines — including the latest 2009 — all have a
richness and palate weight, yet they present with an economy rather than
an excess: there is oak, a whiff of botrytis, discreet grandeur rather
than a towering sense of presumption.
The Tierhoek 2009 was equally splendid — the same kind of ripeness,
ample but not overdone barrel notes and real persistence on the finish.
Springfontein Jil’s Dune 2009 has the same feel, but with more obvious
minerality. The Reyneke Reserve 2009 (part of the Woolworths organic
range) was simply exceptional: haunting aromatics and plush textures
that seem to linger endlessly on the palate.
There were also several fabulous dessert wines, of which the Kanu Kia
Ora 2006, the Tierhoek 2006 and the Nederburg 2008 were all standout
examples.
Chenin Blanc Showcase 27
September 2010 held at Delaire Graff Estate
The Showcase is the first of what we hope will become a regular event on
the South African wine calendar. We will look to provide two tastings
per year, one highlighting new releases, and another highlighting the
rich & ripe wooded & sweet styles. The showcase was attended by a
selected group of the media and producers.
The Chenin Blanc Association’s goal is to drive the production and sale
of quality Chenin Blanc both in South Africa and abroad. Amongst other
events, we hope to achieve this by showcasing wines that we believe
reflect the style of Chenin Blanc that is and will be successful in
South Africa and abroad.
The 28 wines presented were a selection of the 2010/2009 releases chosen
by the Chenin Blanc Association as a reflection of styles that are
currently on sale in South Africa and abroad. These wines fall into
three distinct categories:
Fresh and Fruity – easy to drink wines that are created for
immediate enjoyment, predominantly un-wooded and most are commercially
available
Rich and Ripe – more complex wines which are un-wooded and
demonstrate a graduation in style either as a result of botrytis or the
use of bush vines or older vineyards, may be drunk after 2 or even 3
years after bottling
Rich and Ripe Wooded – complex and intricate wines demonstrating
a finesse and elegance that is the result of an interplay of older or
bush vines and the oak regimen, may be drunk up to 4 to 6 years after
bottling.
The chef of the Indochine Restaurant dazzled the attendees during lunch
with an array of platters of starters, main and desserts to pair with
different styles endorsing chenin’s versatility & compatibility with a
range of food flavours.
Ken Forrester
Chairman: Chenin Blanc Association
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